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Grupo de Análise de Mercado

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Valentine Likhachev
Valentine Likhachev

Turn On All The Lights

Turn on all the lights is a short minimalist logic puzzle game. It is a sequel to the game Turn on the light (review available here) by the same developer. There are 40 levels in which players must create a continuous connection from the lightswitch to each of the lights such that the right colored light can be delivered to the bulb. After doing this with all lights in the level, the level is complete. There are a number of small mechanisms built into the circuits that players will have to figure out and solve in order to make the necessary connections.

Turn on all the lights

Much like the original Turn on the light game, later levels of Turn on all the lights have circuits embedded within circuits. Rectangles in connection indicate embedded circuits that players can zoom in on, sometimes up to three or four layers deep. Embedded circuits can also have multiple inputs and outputs meaning players will have to memorize and keep track of what kind of light they need to enter or exit the circuit where. In more complex later levels, these circuits are often reused for multiple colors and/or lights.

The cost effectiveness of when to turn off lights depends on the type of bulb and the cost of electricity. The type of lightbulb you use is important for several reasons. All lightbulbs have a nominal or rated operating life, which is affected by how many times they are turned on and off. The more often they are switched on and off, the lower their operating life.

Incandescent lights should be turned off whenever they are not needed, because they are the least efficient type of lighting. 90% of the energy they use is given off as heat, and only about 10% results in light. Turning lights off will also keep a room cooler, an extra benefit in the summer.

While halogens are more efficient than traditional incandescent bulbs, they use the same technology and are far less efficient than CFLs and LEDs. Therefore, it is best to turn these lights off whenever they are not needed.

In any case, the relatively higher "inrush" current required lasts for half a cycle, or 1/120th of a second. The amount of electricity consumed to supply the inrush current is equal to a few seconds or less of normal light operation. Turning off fluorescent lights for more than 5 seconds will save more energy than will be consumed in turning them back on again. Therefore, the real issue is the value of the electricity saved by turning the light off relative to the cost of changing a lightbulb. This in turn determines the shortest cost-effective period for turning off a fluorescent light.

The operating life of a LED is unaffected by turning it on and off. While lifetime is reduced for fluorescent lamps the more often they are switched on and off, there is no negative effect on LED lifetime. This characteristic gives LEDs several distinct advantages when it comes to operations. For example, LEDs have an advantage when used in conjunction with occupancy sensors or daylight sensors that rely on on-off operation. Also, in contrast to traditional technologies, LEDs turn on at full brightness almost instantly, with no delay. LEDs are also largely unaffected by vibration because they do not have filaments or glass enclosures.

The most cost-effective length of time that a light (or set of lights) can be turned off before the value of the savings exceeds the cost of having to replace bulbs (due to their shortened operating life) will depend on the type and model of bulb and ballast. The cost of replacing a bulb (or ballast) depends on the cost of the bulb and the cost of labor to do it.

Lighting manufacturers should be able to supply information on the duty cycle of their products. In general, the more energy-efficient a lightbulb is, the longer you can leave it on before it is cost effective to turn it off.

This is a little guide for better controlling smart lights with Google Assistant. I decided to put it together after I discovered an usability improvement using Google Assistant in conjunction with my Home Assistant instance.

GAME INFOTurn on all the Lights. Light the bulbs is an online physics and logic game to connect the circuit and light all the bulbs. In order for all the bulbs to light up, they must all have a direct connection to the battery, which carries the light or electricity from the power source to all the bulbs or light points in the electrical circuit. Make sure all bulbs or lights are connected to the battery by rotating the position of the wires to close the electrical circuit and provide electrical power to all bulbs.

There are a few misconceptions about fluorescent lighting that keep too many people from turning lights off to save energy. The first misconception is that it takes more energy to start a fluorescent light than it takes to run it. The second misconception is that turning a fluorescent light off and on will wear it out right away. Like many of our myths about energy, there is a small amount of truth in the belief. (Special thanks to Steve Selkowitz of Lawrence Berkeley National Labs for the research on which this article was based.)

When you turn on a fluorescent light bulb (correctly called a "lamp"), there is a very brief jump in current when the ballast charges the cathodes and causes the lamp to start. This inrush of current can be many times greater than the normal operating current of the lamp. However, the spike of current draw normally lasts no longer than 1/10th of a second, and draws the equivalent of about 5 seconds of normal operation. So, if you turn your fluorescent lamp off and on more frequently than every 5 seconds, you will use more power than normal. So, normal switching of fluorescent lamps has very, very, very little effect on a power bill.

Electric lights have a published rating for expected life. This rating is in the hundreds of hours for many incandescent lights, and in the thousands of hours for most fluorescents. Fluorescent lights have a life rating based on how many hours they are left on every time they are turned on. This is usually referred to as "burn time", and for fluorescent lights the burn time is three hours.

Every time a fluorescent light is turned on, a tiny amount of the coating on the electrodes is burned off. Eventually, enough coating is burned off, and the lamp fails to start. Most full-size fluorescent lamps are rated to last 20,000 hours when left on for 3 hours every time they are turned on. This means that the lamp has roughly 6,667 starts available to use up. (20,000/3 = 6,667)

You should be able to make a Alexa routine specifically for the turn on/off all the lights voice commands as a sort of mask. Then have nothing as an action, or maybe just a wait action as a no operation.

On another note, does your "turn on/off lights" command work well in a specific room? For me it turns on an off locally as you say, but it does not seem to be constrained to "lights" and turns on/off my plugs including my TV as well that are in that group. Have you noticed the same?

I knew there was an issue on Amazon side. I try to use the "turn lights on" feature for local room controls, but when I add a specific light to alexa, that's the only light that gets triggered regardless of which room i do it in or how my groups are set up. I've just resorted to not having that switch be voice controlled and let everything else run smooth

I've created an "all lights" group with devices I don't care about inside. I haven't tested yet to see if this is enough to trick Alexa into not trying to find all lights on its own should it think I said "all lights" (I never do, but "all blinds" apparently sounds similar enough sometimes). Because the consequences are borderline disastrous, affecting any switch, virtual or otherwise and not just lights, I'm still afraid to test, but I'm hoping it will work. I suspect we have different motivations for avoiding this, but just an idea if it does work.

I was having the same issue where Alexa turns on/off my sockets when I ask her to turn on/off my lights locally in that room ... "Alexa, lights off" results in all lights in the room turning off (wanted) and all sockets in the room turning off (unwanted). That feature was working correctly with Smartthings but I've completely migrated to Hubitat now and it doesn't work. So I'm assuming it's something to do with Hubitat. All those Ikea sockets were running on the Ikea socket driver but once I changed the driver to a generic zigbee socket driver everything worked as it should.

I have no devices set up in the Alexa "All lights" group. "Alexa turn all lights off yields, "All lights doesn't support that." I use Alexa to control groups and scenes. I also have an Alexa routine, "Goodnight" that turns off most lights and the TV.

Same, even though the interface specifically says to set your switches and plugs as lights if you want to control them with the "lights" command. It controls them either way no matter what you set unless you take them out of the group. For my room with a fan and TV connected to fire TV cube I made the main group "Family Room TV" and then made another group "Family Room Lights" with just the lights, and then put the lights group IN the TV group. So far it is doing what I want. With out that "turn on the lights" would turn on the fan and the TV (the TV is not even on a smart plug, just connected to the cube).

I ran into a similar issue 2 years ago now, and I even went down the rabbit hole with the Alexa support team for I kid you not, 3+ hours, and they swore to me that "Alexa, turn off/on lights" being room dependent is not even a feature when it clearly is, but just horribly inconsistent and broken.

I ended up just getting fed up and made a routine for "Alexa, turn on lights" and "Alexa, turn off lights" that just have no actions (purely just to mask over the broken functionality). Then I handle the logic entirely in NR via the remote2 nodes which just transcribe the spoken command which has been far more reliable.

I have a dummy Hubitat virtual switch which I put into Alexa groups " all the lights" and "everything" to avoid many of the problems. I've also used the Alexa skill blueprint "Custom Q&A" to trap potentially unwanted requests and respond with some appropriate message. 041b061a72


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